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Sigara Borek (Turkish Savory Meat Pastry)

Monday, March 4, 2019

I have been exploring lately with phyllo dough. Aside from being the base for delicious baklava, the dough can also serve as a base for more savory treats. You may already be familiar with my slight obsession with various versions of meat-based pastries.

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The Sigara Boreks are a Turkish meat pastry consisting of savory filling (here made with lamb, although they can also be made with cheese and other fillings) wrapped in phyllo dough. Borek typically refers to any dish made with a flaky dough. Sigara boreks in particular are made to look like a little fat stuffed cigar, hence the name Sigara. As typical with many foods and recipes, this dish transcends geographical borders. Versions of borek dishes appear in Eastern Europe, Israel, the Caucuses, and the Middle Eastern regions to name a few.

This version is made with lamb meat. If you cannot find ground lamb you can use beef or ground turkey, but the flavor will not be the same. The slight pungence of lamb works well with potent spices used in the filling, including cumin, cinnamon, coriander and sumac.

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To make the boreks, precook the filling first. Then working with a single sheet of fully thawed phyllo dough you will brush it lightly with olive oil and fold it in half. Turning the short side towards you, place the filling towards the edge closest to you. Fold the edge closest to you over the meat, and fold over about half an inch of the long sides. Wrap the borek away from you like rolling up a rug (I am doing this backwards in the photos because my husband was taking the pictures to show the process better).

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Place the finished borek on a baking sheet and brush with oil. You can sprinkle some poppy or sesame seeds on top for decoration.

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A note on sumac. Sumac is a spice common across the Middle East and Central Asia. It is derived from a plant and adds a tangy, lemony flavor to dishes. It can be used as an ingredient or a finishing spice on meats, as well as on side dishes and salads. Its reddish-burgundy color can add a nice contrast to a dish. It is subtle, and it can complement many different dishes and cuisines. I've been putting it on pretty much everything lately. It may be available in supermarkets with a large or specialty spice selection, or specialty food stores. I managed to find one at Whole Foods (it was the last one).

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These boreks can be served as a snack or an appetizer. They go particularly well with a garlic-yogurt dip or tzadziki sauce and a red chimichurri sauce (I could not find any so I used some spicy jarred salsa instead).

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Sigara Borek
Makes about 20 boreks

You will need:
2 tbs olive oil for frying
1/2 cup olive oil for brushing phyllo dough
1/4 cup finely chopped onion
1 lb ground lamb
1/2 tsp hot Hungarian paprika (or to taste; you may also substitute with smoked paprika)
1/2 tsp coriander
1 tsp cumin
1 tsp black pepper
1 tsp sumac
1/2 tsp cinnamon
Salt to taste
1/2 lb or 20 sheets frozen phyllo dough, thawed
sesame or poppy seeds for garnish
Pastry brush

Directions:
1. Defrost phyllo dough according to directions. Preheat oven to 350F and line a baking sheet with parchment paper.
2. Heat 2 tbs olive oil in a pan. Add onion and cook on medium heat until fragrant and slightly transluscent, about 1 minute. Add the meat, paprika, coriander, cumin, pepper and sumac and mix well. Season with salt. Cook until the meat is browned and no longer pink. Place in a bowl and allow to cool slightly to allow you to work with it.
3. Place the phyllo dough on parchment paper and cover with another sheet of parchment paper or paper towel to avoid drying. Place a sheet of phyllo dough on a dry working surface, short edge facing you. Brush the sheet lightly with olive oil (not heavy brush strokes, but as though you're making a provisional sketch on a canvas). Fold the sheet in half and turn so that the short edge is facing you again. Place about 1 1/2 tbsp of meat in a line about 1/2 inch from the edge, leaving enough room on each side to fold it. Fold the edge facing you over the meat. Fold over the long sides of the sheet to allow the meat to be tucked in. Roll the borek away from you like rolling up a rug. Place on a baking sheet with the outer edge tucked under.
4. Repeat with the remaining filling and sheets, eyeballing so that you have about 20 or so boreks. Brush the tops of the boreks with a little olive oil. Sprinkle with sesame or poppy seeds. Bake for 25-30 minutes until golden brown. Serve warm.

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Baklava

Sunday, February 24, 2019

Baklava, a crispy, nutty, syrupy treat, is enjoyed in a number of countries across the Middle East, Central Asia and the Mediterranean, with a few variations by region. Making it isn't difficult, but perhaps slightly time consuming. The end result is well-worth the effort and far fresher and better than any pre-made baklava that I've had. The layered phyllo dough sheets are buttered and interlaced with nuts and are baked first without any syrup. Once baked, the baklava is soaked in syrup for several hours, so be sure to make it earlier in the day or the day before serving.


Baklava is typically very sweet, with the syrup loaded with sugar, so that people will rarely brave more than one piece. In this recipe, I made the syrup using dark brown sugar and a bit of lemon juice, along with honey. The end result is slightly less sweet, with the taste of honey more prominent.


When purchasing your nuts be sure they are not salted (I had a hard time finding unsalted roasted pistachios). Chopped pistachios also make a great garnish by creating a nice contrast if you sprinkle a few bits on top.


Baklava
(Makes enough for one 9x13 inch dish)

You will need

For the dough:
2 cups chopped walnuts and pistachios, plus more pistachios for garnish
1/2 tsp ground cinnamon
1/4 tsp cardamom
1/4 tsp ground cloves
1 lb frozen phyllo dough (containing 40 sheets)
2 sticks unsalted butter (1/2 cup)
9x13 inch baking dish
Pastry brush

For the syrup:
1/2 cup wildflower or orange blossom honey
1/2 cup brown sugar
1 cup water
Juice of 1/2 lemon (about 1 1/2 tbsp)
1 tsp ground cinnamon

Directions:
1. Defrost phyllo dough according to package instructions (usually a few hours on a counter or overnight in a refrigerator). Preheat oven to 350 F.
2. Chop nuts on a cutting board until finely chopped (1/8 inch pieces or less), or grind them in a coffee grinder until coarse. Mix nuts with cinnamon, coriander and cardamom and set aside.
3. Melt butter in a saucepan until liquid. Remove dough from packaging and lay it on a parchment paper. Trim the dough so that it will fit in your baking dish. Cover the dough with another parchment paper so it will not dry out. Brush the bottom of your pan with butter lightly.
3. Working quickly, lay one sheet of phyllo dough into your baking dish, brush it lightly with butter. Place another sheet on top and brush with butter. Repeat until you have 8 sheets. Sprinkle about 1/4 of the nuts in a thin single layer, then cover with one sheet of phyllo dough and brush with butter. Repeat, until you have 8 sheets, then top with 1/3 of the remaining nuts. Repeat again, layering 8 sheets brushed with butter, then topping it with 1/2 of the remaining nuts. Repeat with another layer of 8 buttered sheets, and top with remaining nuts. Cover with remaining 8 sheets, brushing each with butter.  With a sharp knife, cut your baklava lengthwise and crosswise on a diagonal to have about 32 pieces. Bake in the oven for 1 hour until golden brown.
4. To make the syrup, combine honey, brown sugar, and water in a saucepan and bring to a simmer. Whisk in the cinnamon and lemon juice. Simmer on low heat for about 10 minutes. Remove from heat.
5. Once baked, remove the baklava from the oven and pour the syrup evenly over it. You will hear baklava crackling; this is good. Sprinkle each baklava piece with a few chopped pistachios. Set aside for about 4 hours or overnight for the syrup to become fully absorbed (you should leave it uncovered at least for a few hours). Serve and enjoy. Baklava can be stored at room temperature covered with parchment paper for several days.

 

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